Photographing the Aurora Borealis

Canon 5D Mk II with Sigma 24-105 Art Lens; ISO 200, f22,1/100 sec. Copyright Karen Ulvestad. All Rights Reserved.

It was interesting photographing the Aurora Borealis for the first time. We arrived around 8:30 pm and left a little before 1 am. I always find it a balance between pure excitement of creating amazing photographs and life commitments. So, I did my research, but quickly realized that it was only a starting point to get a picture. The results of my experience unfolds below. . .

The photo above is the sunset before the show. I thought is was interesting to see the halos around the sun as it was setting. I took this like any sunset. I noticed the halo and soft appearance of the sun once I got home and looked at it on the computer. Truly, it was the perfect beginning of an evening photographing the Aurora Borealis.

Canon 5D Mk II with Sigma 24-105 Art Lens; ISO 1250, f4,8 sec. Copyright Karen Ulvestad. All Rights Reserved.

This is my very first attempt at photographing the Aurora Borealis. I followed the instructions from online, and this was the result. I placed my Canon 5D Mk II with Sigma 24-105 Art Lens on my tripod. I adjusted it so the horizon was straight. I used the following exposure: ISO 1250, f4, 8 sec. I set my focus manually to infinity. Afterwards, I did some exposure adjustments in the digital darkroom, and this was the end result. I think it’s pretty good for the first time.

As I thought about the location, exposure, and composition elements, I realized that I needed to experiment with the exposure. I usually try to use lower ISO so I do less post-processing to reduce noise and pixelization. If it can be done in the camera, why should I spend time on the computer trying to “fix” it?

Canon 5D Mk II with Canon 8-15; ISO 400, f4,10 sec. Copyright Karen Ulvestad. All Rights Reserved.

Finally, the show revved up! The whole sky filled with color and movement. I wanted to show it all, so I pulled out my Canon 8-15mm lens. The image above is taken at 8mm (fish-eye), and captured the entire scene. I like the people, buildings and lights around the edge. It gives it a sense of place, and shows the life of the event. People cheered as the Aurora shifted and showed its colors. At this point, I changed my exposure and approach to photographing the aurora. My camera was still mounted on my tripod. My exposure was ISO 400, f4, and 10 sec. I worked with fine tuning the exposure and color afterwards in the digital darkroom.

I think the biggest thing I learned about this event is to be open to experimenting with exposure and composition. Often, we are in a place or situation less than ideal for our vision. It is good to be adaptable and open to the opportunities available. What knowledge I can offer is simply. . .you need a tripod to get crisp, clean photos of the aurora or other night photography. The rest is up to your knowledge of your equipment and exposure.

Tips on Shooting Subjects at Night

Generally speaking, photography is the use of light to create an image. Night is without the sun, so light sources are created by humankind. The photographer uses these sources of light to create artist renditions of night scenes, fireworks, the moon, or portraits.

In the exposure equation, the photographer needs to manipulate either or all of the following: ISO, Aperture, or Shutter Speed. It is advisable to use a tripod.

The first image here is from a large fireworks display. I used a tripod, and a long exposure to capture the lines of light. The exposure was F11, 8 seconds at 125 ISO. The watercolor wash feeling of color is from the fireworks reflecting off the smoke.

TIP: Pick a spot to shoot from, pre-set the exposure, and use a tripod/shutter release.

copyright Karen Ulvestad

In this next photograph, the fireworks are used to create a portrait of the child. This is a sparkler, and it casts an incandescent light color on the subject. The green light in the background is fluorescent. This was shot with a Daylight White Balance. The exposure is F5.6, 4 seconds at 100 ISO. I used a tripod.

The color of the sparkler will show in the photograph. This was a gold (or yellow) sparkler. It’s good to dress the subject in medium-toned clothing, which will stand-out from the dark background and bright light of the sparkler.

TIP: Have the person hold as still as possible, while moving the sparkler.

copyright Karen Ulvestad

This last image is of the “Super” Moon last month. The exposure for this image is F16, 1/100 second at 400 ISO. The moon is very bright, due to the fact it reflects the sun’s light. To expose it and show the craters, the photograph must be under-exposed. This means to let in less light than the light-meter in the camera indicates as the correct exposure.

For more detailed information on exposure and camera operation, I will be teaching classes through the City of Edmonds this fall.

Happy Shooting. . .Karen

copyright Karen Ulvestad